Antonia Allegra
antonia@fcs.net

WRITER

Please click any of the links below to read samples of Toni's writing.

 

 

The Biggest Bread in Sancerre

Excerpts - Introduction to Napa Valley: The Ultimate Winery Guide

Foreword to The Recipe Writer’s Handbook

Wine Country Appetizer Cooking Class Menu

Script for KPIX/CBS weekly “Evening Magazine”

 

The Biggest Bread in Sancerre
From Adventures in Wine
Edited by Thom Elkjer
Travelers’ Tales © 2002

 

 

My memory still floods with the richness, the slightly moist crumb, the yeasty goodness of every bite of the bread of Sancerre. It was not only the best bread in the world; surely it was the biggest, at least in that region. At the turn of the year in 1973, our three children and we traveled from our home in Palaiseau just south of Paris to visit friends in a five-dog town southeast of Sancerre. We stayed at the family home of a colleague of my husband. That home had started its life as a relais (inn) in the 1600s. The limestone soil was icy cold, colored only by the deep umber trunks of occasional leafless trees lining the vineyards. Frost lined the edges of a small bowl set out for the family dog who howled into the night, unable to lap from his thick wooden bowl of frozen water.

We needed bread for the family to go with cheese - local Pithiviers and Gien were our favorites - and to accompany the wonderfully crisp Loire Valley white wines. So, we asked around for the best source. All leads pointed to the stone oven of an older gentleman baker and his son living in the hills outside the village. We chipped away at the opaque freeze on the windows of our Citroen and off we went to find the pain de campagne.

Following our noses, we sought the renowned bread. We climbed a hill stretching up from the main dirt road. There was a pungency that absolutely overtook us, a smell of the best bread in the world, a smell that wended its way deep to the marrow. By the time we arrived at the crest of the hill, the children were pink and wide-eyed, hopping like small birds on the cold ground. Then we saw the bread. It was the biggest bread we’d ever seen. It was almost as high as Paul, our 2-year old, nearly 3 feet. The flour-encrusted young boulanger guided earthy round loaves from the steaming outdoor oven to a stone side table and then handed a cooled loaf to us. The father baker tore off pieces of the loaf and handed them to us. I still recall the sour, toothy crunch of crust and core of that bread. We talked a while, sipping Sancerre and learning that the people of the town used chunks of the bread to thicken soups and as salad croutons once the bread staled. As we walked down the hill, the huge round of bread in hand, I chatted with the kids while my husband spoke with the bakers. It was only after we were well on our way back to Palaiseau that he told me that the senior boulanger had offered to negotiate a wine country trade: a loaf of his bread for a roll in the hay with madame.

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Excerpts - Introduction to
Napa Valley: The Ultimate Winery Guide

by Antonia Allegra
Photography by Richard Gillette
Chronicle Books, © 1993, 1997, 2000

 

 

The play of color against the thirty-mile symmetry of neat vineyards bonds visitors and residents to this Napa Valley. As you drive along the two north-south thoroughfares, the gentle mountain ranges act as backdrop to spectacular views, dappled with vineyard colors that depend on the time of year - the bright yellow of mustard plants at the feet of dormant vines in spring; a rich, verdant carpet of summer’s grape leaves; the autumn olive, rust, burgundy, and sienna of a Renaissance tapestry; and finally the somber black and brown tones of winter.

Sometimes, seen from an auto at fifty miles per hour, trellis wires give the impression of sheets of silver. The quality of light in this region is often extraordinary and has been the inspiration for many an artist’s eye. If your eye grabs a point and moves with it, you will see a blur of color. But allow the view to skip from row to row of vines and it will seem to be a series of mirrors, channels reflecting plants in various stages of life. In fact, it is the constant awareness of the life-growth-harvest cycle of renewal that invokes reflectiveness throughout the year….

…Those who have visited the wine regions of Europe will see similarities in the rocky grape-growing terrains and occasionally in the vistas. However, I believe that there is one major difference from the tourist’s point of view: in Europe, a vineyard visit is just that, a walk in the vineyard, if you’re lucky. More often, it is a descent into a cool basement to taste some wine and make a purchase. If you wish to see imposing architecture accessible to the public, you must travel to the various chateaux regions that often are near but separated from the vineyards. And they often require special reservations. Here in the Napa Valley, a visitor has the best of all worlds. Superb wines are available at any of more than two hundred fifty wineries, and often the establishments are housed in magnificent structures themselves worthy of castle-visits. As it turns out, winery owners are the royalty of the Napa Valley, their kingdoms being vineyards and wineries….

…In my hometown of St. Helena, certain daily observations still strike me as gifts rather than facts of life. I have lived in big cities and nothing there offers such basic pleasure as the morning greeting from the postman when I pick up my mail or the sound of frogs croaking on starry spring nights. The OK Barber Shop on Main Street hasn’t changed its interior in at least fifty years, and its dull green, ecru, and chrome fixtures aren’t likely to switch to those of a styling salon. Crusty country loaves continue to exit hot from the Model Bakery’s brick oven, and the town merchants chatter in the morning light as they sweep their sidewalk footage. Crime decreased by 31 percent in 1989 in St. Helena; there wasn’t much to speak of before and hasn’t been since. And a call-to-alarm alerts volunteer Fire Department members and townspeople of some strain in the otherwise calm life of the town. There are other images, too. There’s a freckled boy -- maybe ten years old -- who frequently bicycles to school, tugging his laughing pal on a skateboard tied to the end of a rope. There is a sweet down-home honesty about this place. Ever-present birds add their joyful touch to daily life. Occasionally a flock of red-winged blackbirds will swoop to a fence rail, exposing a sudden surprise of brilliant red feathers at their shoulders. Or, when unpicked grapes still hang like udders from vines in December, it’s not unusual for the sky to be filled with careening, twittering starlings, drunk from the yeasty vineyard fruit…

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Foreword to
The Recipe Writer’s Handbook

By Barbara Gibbs Ostmann and Jane L. Baker
Foreword by Antonia Allegra
John Wiley & Sons, © 1997, 2001

 

 

"One certainly cannot learn the technical details of cookery entirely from books, but if the cooks of the past had believed That written recipes were unnecessary, we should now be in a sad plight indeed."
      ·Elizabeth David

What is the soul of a written recipe? There is a basic creativity about recipe writing that balances the traditional verbal passage of a culinary procedure with the scientific accuracy of a laboratory formula. Ideally, a recipe captures the essence of the food in question, as well as the very culture of the dish and the personal interests of the recipe writer.

Is there a magic to popular recipes? It seems to me that a good recipe resembles a good joke. If you can quickly grasp the food concept and repeat the method with relative ease, chances are the recipe will find a niche in the culinary repertoire of cooks, be they experienced or novice. As a result, some recipes, just like great one-liners, pass from generation to generation.

Behind the success of such recipes lies a detailed formula. In this book, Jane Baker and Barbara Ostmann present a complete range of recipe formulae. As a result of the authors’ extensive research, this text turns the tables on most recipe experiences in order to teach the intimate elements of the recipe-writing art. In fact, the standard use of a recipe moves from the sourcebook - generally a cookbook - to the finished presentation at table. The pace here is reversed: Written recipes result from analysis and understanding of the food. By harnessing the names of a basketful of ingredients, listing amounts for culinary preparation, and describing cooking methods in brief detail, the recipe writer can best understand and describe the process of cooking.

For those who hold that the heart of fine recipe writing is recipe testing, put on your apron and run, don’t walk, to Chapter Four for insights on such key issues as judging target audience; doubling recipes on paper and in reality; how to deal with testing/writing about ethnic ingredients as well as measuring foods with variable volumes such as some fruits and vegetables and pastas. There is no question that by observing the recipe testing and writing instructions, your recipes will be crystalline in style, leading toward successfully prepared and cooked foods.

In a sense, the aims of a perfectly written recipe closely resemble the aspirations of a well-balanced life. Consider the key goals: order, clarity, accuracy, and style. One possible outcome of such goals achieved, whether related to life or to recipes, is longevity - given well-chosen input and a good measure of luck.

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Wine Country Appetizer Cooking Class Menu
©1995

 

 

The Ultimate Mediterranean Appetizer Cooking Class

"Whether you are looking ahead to holiday entertaining or simply wanting to zero-in on mouth-watering appetizers for any time, Antonia Allegra will teach you her favorite pre-meal tastes with her renowned personalized teaching style. She will discuss and pour wines to serve with these appetizers. Those who took her class last fall will attest that this is one of the most enthusiastic and effective cooking teachers. Don’t miss this class with Toni!"
      · Catalog, Central Market Cooking School, Austin, Texas

Antipasto al Sole -- The queen of Italian antipasti, Antipasto al Sole blends seafood, tomatoes and vegetables to create a appetizer that could be the base of a simple meal.

Black Olive/Pine Nut Tapenade -- Spread this intense taste of the French and Italian Riviera on bruschetta .

Gateau de Fromage -- Combine three cheeses as a spread and balance the combination with pecans for texture and flavor. This do-ahead appetizer, surrounded with apple or pear slices, offers a beautiful presentation and tangy flavor.

Mini-Quiches aux Champignons -- Delicate crust baked with a creamy mushroom filling

Orange-Spiked Olives -- A combination of the wine country fruits of citrus and olive.

Prosciutto and Spinach Erbazzone -- This appetizer features dense spinach filling with Parmigiano-Reggiano and a thin outer layer of prosciutto.

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Script for KPIX/CBS weekly “Evening Magazine”
Aired in Northern California
Wine Barrels ©1998

 

 

KPIX - BARRELS SCRIPT On air (1.5 minutes) Thurs, Nov. 5, 1998

One of the most important elements of fine winemaking doesn’t grow on vines. I’m Toni Allegra with an insider’s tour YOU can take to learn all about barrel making -- a key to great wine.

Seguin-Moreau is a French/American barrel company at the south end of Napa.

Here, you’ll watch master barrel makers - called “coopers”- jamming wooden staves together and fastening them with metal bands to form the barrel shape.

The technique hasn’t changed for hundreds of years! The cooper toasts the inside of each barrel over open flames, and it is THAT toasting that changes the oak and releases flavor and aroma into aging wine.

Each wood adds a different flavor to the wine and most experts would agree that the French oak barrel is the standard. But, at $660 dollars each, French is twice as expensive as American oak barrels, and wine barrels have a limited life.

So, this is it: Elegant barrels may be pricy, but this tour doesn’t cost a thing. You just need to call for an appointment.

Saluté!

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